Towards Jammu

Even though we had a long day in Amritsar, our enthusiasm was still high. We decided to travel overnight to Katra in Jammu to visit Vaishnodevi shrine.

11th April, 2008

Reached Katra at dawn. The mountain where the shrine is situated looked beautiful against the light-blue backdrop.
We freshened up at a government Yatri Niwas and after having some tasty Aloo parathas we were set on our way to visit the shrine. The journey uphill being a tasking one, we took up the the helicopter ride. It was the first time I rode in a copter and it was worth every rupee spent. From the Helipad, we had to walk for about an hour till the shrine.

The pathway along which we travelled provided a divine view of the surroundings.The shrine is located inside a cave in the mountain. After the darshan, we headed to Bhairon Ghati which is still higher from the shrine. The legend says that the yatra isn't complete unless one visits this place after visiting the shrine. After a strenous climb, we reached this place. The viewing gallery here provided some of the most beautiful scenery of the area with the clouds
descending on the mountains and the mist in the air.



The Climb down
This was an unforgettable part of the journey. We started climbing down to the Katra village. The winding path with steps intertwined seemed to be never ending. It took us 4 hours to reach the base after taking some breaks in between. Our legs were hurting and all we could take were baby-steps by the time we reached the base.

An unplanned destination
At Katra, while discussing with a travel agent, we had the idea of visiting Srinagar. This was not in our plans. We were soon on our way to Srinagar.

For the night we stopped at Patnitop hill station. This is a small hill station nestled in the hills of Jammu on the way to Srinagar. It was raining and temperatures dropped drastically. Luckily we could find a hotel to spend the night.

The Wagah Border

Next on our agenda was the Wagah Border. Amritsar must the only big city closest to the India-Pakistan border. It took us about an hour to reach the Wagah border. We reached at around 5 pm in the evening. The crowds had started gathering at the entrance. From the entrance the we had to walk up to the gate which is about a kilometre away. From here, we could see the 'other' side. I tried to figure out the difference between the two sides. They both looked the same. The colour of the soil, the green fields, the seasonal flower blooms - they all looked similar on both sides. The only difference that I could make out was man-made. Soon we were up in the stands near the gate. There was a patriotic enthusiasm in the air as the BSF played desh-bhakti songs and an energetic host from the troops got the crowds going with slogans of 'Vande-Mataram' and 'Hindustan Zindaabad.' The jawans of the BSF with their elegantly royal uniforms got the applause of crowds as they marched towards the gate. This ceremony is called as 'Lowering the flag.' The gates opened and Jawans from both the sides marched and saluted each other in a highly aggressive manner. The crowd was at the pinnacle of excitement at this moment. The pride in one's own country and hostility towards the other was there to be seen. It was a really awe-inspiring experience.

A dark day in history

From the Golden Temple, the Jalianwaala Baugh is quite nearby. This place looks like any other place from the outside. But the moment you enter the narrow alley leading to the garden, you are suddenly pulled into a moment in history. A moment which saw the most brutal and ruthless killing of innocent people; elderly, women, children - there was no consideration. Only cold blooded killing. The walls of the baugh still bear testimony to this gruesome act of a mindless British officer. The bullet marks are still clear. People running away from the incessant fire found no place to run. Some climbed the wall. Others jumped in a well only to find death waiting there. This well is named as the 'Shaheedi Kua' or the 'Martyr's well' in memory of the people who lost their lives while they were protesting peacefully against the 'Raj'. A memorial flame called 'Amar Jyoti' reminds the visitors that its because of these people and their sacrifice that we enjoy freedom today.
Places like these are witness to some of the darkest days in history of the 'civilized' (??) mankind.

Laccha Paratha

After the enjoying the grandeur of Golden Temple, it was time to enjoy some authentic Punjabi food. We had a local friend with us who took us to a restaurant where we one of the most makkhan-rich meals of our lives. The Lacchha parathas were really awesome. But they are so much stuffed that we couldn't eat more than one. We finished the meal with a glass of thick Lassi...yum !!! The cuisine of Punjab is really rich, tasty and heavy too.